October's Communion

October, at least in San Francisco, is a month of remembering: it marks the anniversary of the Loma Prieta earthquake, 20 years to be exact this past October 17th. In line with the commemoration, I've been thinking a lot about emergencies, especially about what would we eat in case of an emergency. I'm always careful to freeze a batch of whatever I cook, so that not only will I have ready-made food in case of lazyness, but so that in the case of food ever being scarce, my household will be able to sustain itself for at least a week, until other arrangements come through.

With that in mind, this month's Communion was about emergencies and the ways in which we cope, or not, with them. I think that for the first time in Communion's short life, both the menu and the theme walked the same lines, so we were pretty excited about not only sharing stories and tips about previous crises, but also for creating dishes that were the gourmet approximation of survival food.

This month's guest cook and helper was none other than my dearest Oscar Manuel Trujillo---dancer, performer, activist and bad-ass extraordinaire---who added his fierce touch to the decor, the pacing in between courses, and making this overworked cook chill out. Below is a surprisingly calm picture of Oscar and me taken from the dining room. (And a note about pictures: I've already claimed I'm a bad, sloppy, forgetful photographer, so the evidently better pictures in this post are by a fellow diner, NickSantan, who was kind enough to email me some of his textured glossy shots.)



Our first course was a "ramen" noodle soup, because, who hasn't had a ¢99 packet of soup when flat-broke? And, isn't being broke a crisis in it of itself? Our conversation navigated around our descriptions of what exactly entails a crisis, an emergency, or being in a pickle. It all depends on perspective and on how quick action is needed. At the same time, some of us asked questions of how our perception may be conditioned to see a situation graver than it is: last week was fleet week here in the Bay, and the Blue Angels were flying really low and really loud. Have we been trained to think of a terrorist attack as soon as we hear the too-close-for-comfort roar of a jetplane's engine? Why do we see an emergency when there isn't one?

And here is a pic of our first course, noodles in a vegetable broth with dino kale, before being carried to the table.

Our second course: anchovies and crackers (or flatbread, really) along with stories of being caught with our pants down (metaphorically.) We made a sautée of onions, garlic, thyme and rosemary in butter, very much in a Pissaladiere style, with anchovies, black olives and watercress. Sure, this sure beats having anchovies and saltines, but it's the thought that counts, no?



One story is of a 17-yr-old girl who threw a house party while her parent's were out of town. The party went on till the wee-hours of the morning, and she was careful to wake up early to clean up before having to pick up her father at the airport that afternoon. She expected beer bottles, cigarette butts and random trash, but what she found was a house robbed of all electronic equipment. She freaked out, not so much for having her house broken into while she slept, but because she now would have to confess to throwing a raging party the night before.

The third course: a chunky beef stew, like the ones you buy in a big can, only better. We browned a chuck roast, cut into one-inch cubes, in olive oil. As they rested in a bowl, we added diced onions, shallots and garlic until softened. Then, added diced carrots and potatoes for sweating. Add a bottle of good red wine (we used a Montirius Côtes du Rhône), and about two cups of beef stock. Bring to boil, reduce heat to low, and cook covered for about 2 hours, until the meat is super tender. I made this stew two days before Communion, and I gotta say, it was perfect. We served it with some homemade rosemary breadsticks and a full-bodied Anglianico.

I think everyone at the table was too busy chowing down, because no one remembered to take a picture. Below is what it looked like in the pot, before it reduced a few inches.

Conversation centered around what our survival modes look like. "Turn to stone" was one that resonated with me, not only because it implies separating panic and fear for the sake of being practical, but also because it captures how in the moment when one realizes the urgency, or the gravity, our hearts stop temporarily turning us into stone. Mine is more like denial, until I can't look away any longer, and others are more like improvisations.

For dessert, we served vanilla wafers, marshmallows and a drizzle of bittersweet chocolate. I put to test my new scorching equipment, and I have to say it was very rewarding. (Crème brûlée, here I come!) We shared tips onto how to deal, prepare and/or avoid any future predicaments: know CPR and the Heimlich maneuver; have a first aid kit handy, and if applicable, an earthquake kit; always keep $20 in your pocket, though some savings and health insurance wouldn't hurt, and best of all, give yourself permission to not do the right thing. But, despite how afraid we might be of a crisis, we are never to avoid bungee jumping, surfing, riding a bike, laughing really hard or falling in love.

Our fifth and final course was a poached pear with Camembert. The inspiration there was that perhaps, in the case of an emergency, the most likely fruit source will be canned fruit, kind of like the canned poached peaches I was addicted to when I was kid. And if there will be cheese (which I hope) it will most likely be a soft spreadable triangle, like the Laughing Cow. But since we are not in an emergency situation (yet) we might as well poach some ripe Bartlett pears with a super sweet gerwerstraminer, cloves and cinnamon; reduce the juices to a syrup, and drizzle it over the fruit and a slice of the creamy goodness.

But if we were in an emergency, what would be the first thing we'd reach for? A pair of shoes, a picture, or nothing at all because we'd be too stunned to choose. If there is anything emergencies do, is put life into perspective: what is really important and what is inconsequential, or transitory. Our survival, and of those around us, is what matters. But how is survival linked to happiness? Are they a one-way street? And, as the picture below shows a pseudo-equation to the survival/happiness paradigm, there is another. Yes, emergencies are unpredictable, unavoidable.

Does that mean they are dangerous? Or can they be a blessing too?



Next Communion is Tuesday, November 24th, featuring a very special guest cook!

September Communion

This month's Communion was a little different than last: a different theme and a mostly different cast. Thanks to Jiwon Park, our sous-chef at Range, the prepping, cooking and serving of dinner was a breeze. At first I was very nervous to have her. Yes, she's my dear friend,but she's also a trained professional. I'm an intuitive cook, but a home-schooled one at that, and even sometimes a very scattered distracted one. Needless to say, I was intimidated. But once she got here and we got to chopping and chatting, it was very comfortable. Jiwon and I talked about our families, hers in South Korea, mine in Venezuela; about our growing up in very different places, and about how, around the same time and the same age, we both moved to San Francisco. Our lives now converged in this kitchen, around my red island work table, with her providing amazing insight into cooking techniques and Korean culture.
Our line-up included Lisa the Peanut, still with Burning Man sand stuck in her hair, and Susita, my dear friend and roommate, who before going to work at her posh Italian restaurant, helped fold napkins and set the dining room table. And Rebekah, The Petaler, who took pity on us and donated an exquisite floral arrangement. So this time, we were ready ahead of schedule, set and ready to go, vestidas y alborotadas.

The theme: Change. How we have coped with it, fought against it, or simply rolled with flow. What was the outcome of change---a success, a defeat, or still the source of bitterness? I wanted to hear what other people called a considerable change and wanted to learn of how they managed it. More specifically, I wanted to learn of those steps we take to entice change: those steps forward, or back, that create a new path to follow.

Our first course was a white bean crostini with basil and shaved parmesan that I played with a few months ago when making a white bean stew. We served it with a simple arugula salad and some plump, meaty olives tossed in lemon juice.

Along came stories of leaps of faith, of when we had no clue of what to do, but jumped anyway. Most stories included a geographical move but in the heart of these tales was how each of us had decided to follow our own path, despite what parents, school, or a lover said. There was as much agency in action than in inaction, too: just as one of us jumped on a plane to Argentina to follow her heart, another refused an private liberal arts education for the massive experience at Cal Berkeley. (Go Bears!)

Second course: a purée of spinach soup with garlic butter, and tales of catalyst events. If I can digress a bit here, this is one of the best soups I've ever made. I've inherited it from my Tía Loly, who runs her own cake business, Aurora, in Caracas.

Sautée onions, garlic, a carrot and a celery stalk until translucent.
Add about 5 cups of water.
Bring to a boil and add cleaned and trimmed spinach until wilted.
Season with salt, pepper and a dash of nutmeg.
Purée in a blender, and unless you're serving immediately, quickly chill over an ice bath. I never knew that trick before, but apparently all food professionals know that. Thanks, Jiwon!

The butter: roast two heads of garlic in a 350 oven for about 45 minutes.
Use room-temperature unsalted butter cut into cubes. Place roasted garlic cloves and butter in a food processor until smooth. Add parsley if desired. Then roll onto saran wrap and make one-inch wide cylinders. Refrigerate until hardened. To serve, just take wrap off, slice, and place onto whatever you're serving!

But back to the confessions, it was curious to see that a lot of us understood the catalyst event to be the same one for which we had had a leap of faith. For me, this sparked a cascade of doubts: What am I doing here? How terribly have I failed at Communion if the first two questions enticed the same answer? Unfortunately, this bone-shaking insecurity lasted a good part of the evening and it kept me from really listening to the rounds of anecdotes shared. I've spoken to each diner since then and they continue to assure me that lessons ran far and wide and that conversation was animated. What a shame I missed it. In a way, that sort of mental and emotional disconnection is what prompted me to come up with Communion in the first place. I'm happy to be reminded of the crucial need to let go and listen and see where the conversation turns.

Our main course: a citrus pork shoulder with a corn and zucchini ragú and pieces of good advice. For a few weeks, I played with the pork shoulder, which Venezuelans call pernil, and deviced a delicious ratio of acid to sweet in the marinade: a cup each of pineapple and orange juices, an onion, a couple of cloves of garlic, bunch of cilantro, about a tablespoon of cumin and a generous pinch of salt.

The handed-down advice made me think of a Venezuelan saying: más sabe el diablo por viejo, que por diablo---meaning age and experience have more to teach than the devil himself. Despite that all the pieces of advice came to each of us in different times and different contexts, I felt that all of them were pertinent to my life at the moment. I don't think I can repeat them any better than the picture below: (And I love Jiwon's Korean handwriting!)

As we indulged in dessert, a fleur de lait ice cream with espresso granitas that I experimented with so much it deserved its own post, we spoke of "best mistakes"---those actions that seemed like a bad idea at the time or those that were a good idea but didn't turn out the way we expected, but somehow all worked out in the end. For me, it was a spring break trip to New York City to interview for a summer internship at a non-profit, when in reality what I really wanted was to be near a man whom I thought at the time was the love of my life. What happened? I didn't get the internship, and the man told me we were speaking different languages. I was the most defeated I'd felt in my life, both at work and at love. On my way back, I was the only one in the plane sobbing inconsolably, but in a moment of glancing out the window, looking at NYC fade away, I thought that not getting what I wanted was exactly what I needed.
In the midst of such bittersweet lessons, good thing there is ice cream!

For our final course we served an Italian sheep's milk Nocino Pecorino and a 3 sister's Serena, a californian cow's milk cheese, with fig preserves and my very own walnut raisin bread. We talked of sliding-door moments, or those where we found ourselves at a fork in the road, where whichever direction leads to a very different outcome. Doesn't that include everyday when we decide to get out of bed?

To close, we asked diners to fill in the blank: I'll be more [___] from now on. I think reminiscing on what we've been through, despite how difficult it was, inspired our answers: appreciative of sorrow, happy, open to all invitations, active/risk-taking/buck-wild, honest (in totality), relaxed/compassionate, loving/honest. I want to be more of all of those from now. The key issue here is not what, but how, we get what we want.

Next Communion is Tuesday October 13th.

tryout recipes: some sucesses, mostly flops

I just made a cannellini bean and green chard stew, with carrots, zucchini and thyme. I've been reading loads of recipes about it, and took what I liked best about each of them. Ross Parsons, food critic at the Los Angeles Times in his book How to Read a French Fry, recommends baking the beans in a dutch oven in teaspoon of salt. He lists garlic, bacon, carrots and Swiss chard. Barbara Fairchild in the Bon Appetit Cookbook mostly lists canned beans, (but does reccomend soaking overnight if you use dried beans) but goes for classic flavors with sage, bacon and plum tomatoes. The Silver Spoon asks for canned beans, eggplant, bell peppers, tomatoes, parsley and basil. My grandma swears by pre-soaking the beans overnight and cooking on very low heat for at least two hours; she would add ham, carrots, chiles, sugar, cilantro.
I decided to loosely follow instructions. I soaked the dried beans for 24 hours; drained, replaced with cold water, brought to a rapid boil, reduced heat, and cooked over medium-low heat for about an hour and 15 minutes.
(In the meantime, I tackled a sanding project that was way overdue. I finally got a hold of a heavy-duty sander and went to town in my backyard. I have officially, and successfully, sanded, primed and finished a janky-looking shelf. The problem here is that my attention was definitely in the sanding, and I have to admit I forgot about the cooking beans on the stove....)
Back in the kitchen, on another pot, I sauteed leeks, shallots, garlic until translucent. In went about 8 chopped Nantes carrots (that had about five more days of fridge life left,) 2 zucchini squash, the chopped stalks from the chard, and 4 thyme springs. Cooked covered for about 10 minutes over medium-low heat. (By then, the beans were overcooked! Falling apart from their shell, the stock was clumpy and starchy from the beans breaking apart.)
Feeling disappointed and a little defeated, I still added the beans along with some of their stock and simmered for about 5 minutes. The result: not the gorgeous stew I had imagined, but something more like baby food. The remaining of the beans went into the freezer for a future use (or earthquake food.) Although pretty flavorful, the stew went right into the blender. Too thick for a soup, but perhaps good enough for a contorni? (I can see this going with some venezuelan-style pork butt---pernil.) Even better, I spread onto toast of a seeded baguette, added some julienned fresh basil, grated some parmesano and sprinkled some coarse salt. Served next to some mizuna drizzled with balsamic, there we had lunch!

The lessons:
Soak beans just overnight. 24 hours is overkill.
Keep an eye on the stove!
Don't overmix the stew ---the ladel bumps against the beans, bruising their shells.
Add the zucchini much, much later.
More salt, maybe lemon zest to serve?