Friday, August 21, 2009

thoughts on pernil

Hmmm....pernil....aka pork shoulder, or pork shoulder butt, comes from the top of the pig's forelegs, like in the way of ham, only the latter comes from the animal's hind legs. It is a really affordable cut, with lots of fat marbling that translates into moisture and flavor during cooking. It is also a staple of Venezuelan feasts, and I learn it is as well for Cubans and Puerto Ricans. Despite having very similar approaches and flavors, they are all very different. Puerto Ricans add spicy peppers; Venezuelans, oregano. Cubans add orange juice, Puerto Ricans, a blend of lemon, lime and orange juices, as well as a rub of adobo. I remember eating it with a sauce of garlic, oregano, sugar, some moscatel wine and worcestershire. I figure there is no right or wrong answer here, just as long as there is at least three hours to marinate, at least four more in the oven and the result is fork-tender. Taking cues from a variety of sources, including this month's Bon Appetit issue, Serious Eats (a fantastic food blog) and my memory, I'm attempting to materialize my own vision of pernil.

Rub the pork with a lemon, salt and pepper and let sit in a roasting pan.
Purée in a blender: couple of cloves of garlic, a small onion, a cup of fresh cilantro, a whole jalapeño, a teaspoon of cumin, with a cup each of orange juice and pineapple juice. Season with salt, pepper and a couple of dashes of red wine vinegar.
Pour liquid marinade on pork, cover with saran wrap and refrigerate for at least three hours, or preferably overnight.
Preheat oven to 450. Covered with tin foil, bake for one hour. Bring temperature down to 400, and let the guy hang out in the oven for about 4 hours. Everyone seems to agree that the desired temp of the meat should be around 180. But I don't have a thermometer, so I'm pretty much eye-balling it here.

(Bad cook disclosure: after the initial hour in the oven, this bad cook here laid down to read, aka rest her eyes, or otherwise known as taking a mid-afternoon nap, and thus left the pernil unsupervised. I woke, with an hour left on my timer, and the meat falling off the bone. All in all, the pernil was in the oven for three hours, and it seemed plenty.)

Remove foil and cook uncovered for about 20 more minutes for the meat to brown.
Move the pernil to a serving platter to rest. Transfer the pan juices to a small saucepan, add a dash of white wine and reduce. Strain the solids and reduce the cleared broth by half.

I served this with a succotash-esque side: leeks, shallots, garlic, yellow and green zucchini squash, sweet white corn and a few cherry tomatoes. Alone, the pernil was a little too acidic, too bright. I'd suggest an extra dash of salt and omitting the red wine vinegar in the marinade. But together, pernil and corn ragu, are a pretty amazing match and helped set the tone for the evening to come. Hmmm, pernil!

1 comment:

Velva said...

This pork shoulder looks fabulous! What a great dish idea as Fall approaches and the weather grows cooler. This dish feels homey and satisfying. Thanks.