Thursday, October 1, 2009

Lessons on patience, and pizza.

Regardless of how intimidated I have been with yeast, pizza dough was one of the first things I tried when I started cooking. I must have been about 17 or 18 years old, when I was either trying to impress a boy my freshman year of college or trying to prove to my mother that I could handle myself once I moved out of her roof. It just doesn't get any easier than pizza, or rather, pizza just has that quality of making amateur cooks feel welcome. How could you ever mess pizza up? The very first recipe I used was from my mom's Betty Crocker cookbook from 1979, but since then, I've gathered that pizza dough recipes are pretty standard: about a cup of warm water for a tablespoon of dry active yeast; stir in a teaspoon of sugar and a tablespoon of oil and wait about five minutes until foamy. Add about two-plus cups of all-purpose flour, teaspoon of salt, and if desired, other add-ins (ground white pepper, dried rosemary, paprika.) Mix, then knead until it forms a smooth, elastic, cohesive ball. Cover with saran wrap and a towel and let rise. Piece of cake, right?

Well, for this impatient cook over here, not really. After I leave the dough to rise for the first hour, I'm usually pretty hungry. So, I roll the dough out, place it onto a pizza tray and go to town with fixings. 20 minutes later, I'm enjoying a pretty satisfying meal.

What I've been learning lately is the superior quality, airyness and texture of a pizza dough that was let to rise for a significantly longer amount of time. If one has the will to wait, the results can be marvelous. (This lesson of patience, though it started with pizza dough, has permeated onto other facets of my life, so let's see what happens, no?)

For reasons involving this month's Communion, I am playing with pizza dough and rehearsing several versions for a flatbread dish. I took the old tried-and-true Betty Crocker recipe and a newer one from the Bon Appétit Cookbook. They were pretty much the same, except Bon Appétit asked for olive oil, instead of vegetable oil. I let both batches rise for one hour; punched dough several times, and let rise for another hour; rolled out onto pizza stone, and let rise for another hour. Though I rolled the dough pretty thin, it rose to an airy thinness, and I was delighted with my efforts to wait.

I wanted seafood based toppings, and since I had two kinds of dough rising, I decided to rehearse two visions of flatbread:

One, a sautée of fennel, red onion, shallot, garlic, parsley, with sardines and lemon zest. Over medium heat, sautée thinly sliced onions, shallots and garlic in olive oil and a 1/4 of a stick of butter. When translucent, add about half of a fennel bulb, sliced. Season with salt, pepper, a bit of dried oregano and a dash of red wine vinegar. Reduce heat to low and stir occasionally until fennel is soft.



The other, a Pissaladiére-esque slow sautée of onions, garlic, butter, thyme, rosemary with anchovies. In a 475 degree oven, place an oven-safe sautée pan with half a stick of butter until melted. Add thinly sliced onions, along with several springs of rosemary, thyme, bay leaf. Sprinkle salt and pepper, and a dash of olive oil. Return pan to the oven and stir every once in a while for about an hour. In the end, the onions are soft and translucent, but still holding their ringed shape.



The crusts were rolled out and placed onto baking surfaces to raise for an hour longer. The fennel sautée was spread onto the Betty Crocker dough. On went canned sardines with some of their oil, a sprinkle of chopped fresh parsley and some grated lemon zest. The Pissaladiére was spread onto the Bon Appétit dough along with canned anchovies. (Note to remove the stalks of thyme and rosemary before.) Both went into a 425 oven and took about the same amount of time, around 15 minutes, until the crust had a golden hint.

Let the flatbread rest when out of the oven, and sprinkle chopped thyme onto the Pissaladiére, and chopped parsley onto the sardine flatbread. Here is where my impatience took a hold of me again: Once the flatbread was out of the oven, I dug right in. I was wolfing down my first slice when I realized: shouldn't I take a picture before it's all gone?



Bad, bad cook (and photographer.) Good eater, tho.

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